If they meet, they will cancel each other, since they are out of phase, and will lead to poor bass response. The role of a speaker box is the separate the waves produced by the front of the speaker, from the waves produced by the back of the speaker.
#Tweeter midrange speaker enclosure design drivers#
Midrange drivers need their own chamber, mainly to separate it from the bass driver (so the pressure from the bass doesn’t interfere with the midrange’s cone), but volume is not to be neglected, as it does affect the sound signature. Tweeters usually come capsulated and do not need enclosures. When we talk about enclosures / boxes, it is common sense that we are going to use it for bass drivers. But first, let’s start off by clearing up some things. There are many types of enclosures out there. Here is a random picture of a pair that arent so compromised.Among the many existing types of enclosures, which one is the best for you ? Design the enclosure around it, then use the active crossover to fit in in where/if it works. My thought for the crossover point was to find a good driver aimed for an approximate range of 500- 2500hz. Aesthetics aren't a concern, as the speakers are extremely unattractive and will never be allowed out of the basement. I can play around with position before affixing them. I figured I would just build a midrange enclosure and either put it on top or between. That speaker is already somewhat modular, the tweeter housing is just sitting on top of the transmission line box. I've really just been keeping it around for the parts(which may be unobtainable) and a future project. This is more of a learning exercise as I would like to try my hand at building a pair of speakers from scratch in the - one of the pairs was an early version that looks like an industrial prototype that was severely abused. I am away from home at the moment, but will add some pictures and measurements - arc does a pretty good job of flattening out the response. A pic of the front of your speaker would help. Now, where are you going to put the thing? Your speakers have the usual TM layout? Be aware that you may create some lobing issues. Spend a few hours at Hificompass & Dibirama, and you'll have more options than you can count. Or a small dome such as Dayton RS52 or Morel MDM55 would work here. Feleppa liked the cheap Dynavox, and his measured really well. Scan 10F or 12W, Peerless HDS, Wavecor 120BD, SB12. You don't need a bigger driver's bass or SPL, and the ribbon will have wide horizontal dispersion at crossover. For an active speaker, you don't care (much) about sensitivity or impedance, so I'd prefer the smaller ones. What are you thinking for the mid's bandpass? 700Hz up to 2, maybe 2.5kHz? Find a good 4-5". But adding a mid can't hurt, and you like your speakers. Most such ribbons do not like low crossovers, and polar mismatch probably will happen with 2-way XO at 2kHz, if not lower. And the measurements.īecause you're trying not to waste money, are you sure that all 4 of your original drivers are working well? Replacing the crossover will help, unless the XO isn't the problem.Īn 8" woofer + smaller ribbon sounds difficult to me. You should probably post some details about how you measured. Though in my measurements I would say that it doesn't get much lower than 30hz before dropping off sharply.
![tweeter midrange speaker enclosure design tweeter midrange speaker enclosure design](https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/H28f9f0bdff2f4379ba38688a4383e802K/Car-Audio-Modified-Three-way-Tweeter-3-5-Midrange-Speaker-Combination-Kit-Treble-with-Aluminum-Boxes.jpg)
I was hoping to get some advice regarding a mid range driver that would match well with a 7" ribbon tweeter within this price range.Ĭlements RT-7 is a 2 way transmission line speaker rated +/- 3db from 26hz - 20khz using an 8" woofer and 7" direct inductance planar ribbon tweeter. My only investment will be the drivers, and I would prefer not to spend more than $500US on the pair. I am thinking about constructing a separate enclosure to handle the mid range, and using a dcx 2496 as a 3way active crossover. My assumption is that, either through degradation or design, the driver and 7" ribbon tweeter aren't capable of being matched at this point. The specifications for the speakers list the crossover point at 1575. However, I have found, when using REW and ARC that I have a drop from around 800hz to 1800hz on both pairs(peaking at about -6db). Currently I own 2 pairs of Clements RT-7 speakers - which I love.